Cruising in France

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Avignon - Home of Popes and a Famous Bridge

Friday, July 31st, 2009

One of the main stops on any cruise on the Rhone River in southern France is Avignon. Here, the riverboats dock right at the foot of history. A flourishing city in Roman times, Avignon is now best known for its high medieval walls, its Palace of the Popes and its broken bridge.

During the 14th century, the seat of the Roman Catholic papacy was moved from Rome to Avignon, and seven popes resided there during a period of almost 70 years. In 1348, Pope Clement VI bought the city from the Duchess of Provence, and Avignon remained a papal property until the French Revolution.

Palace of the Popes, Avignon, France Pont d'Avignon, France Indoor Market, Avignon, France

The thick walls built by the popes still encircle the city (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and the narrow streets, while fine for pedestrians, are best left to local drivers unless you have a very small rental car and a very good navigator!

If you’ve ever studied French, you may have learned the song “Sur le pont d’Avignon” which describes dancing “on the bridge of Avignon.” The Saint Bénézet bridge used to span the Rhône River from Avignon to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, crossing over the Île de Barthelasse. It is on this island that people probably danced under (not on) the bridge

The bridge was built in the late 12th century at the urging of Saint Bénézet, a local shepherd boy who, according to tradition, was commanded by angels to build a bridge across the river. It originally had 22 arches and was nearly 3000 feet long. However, over the centuries, most of the bridge was destroyed by floods, and today only 4 arches remain

Avignon also has a large indoor market, where you can buy anything from cheese and sausages to regional candy specialties like calissons d’Aix (my personal favorite).

Carcassonne - Amazing Medieval Fortress

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

Among the most fascinating places in southwestern France is the medieval fortress of Carcassonne, a World Heritage Site. With over 50 towers and 2 miles of double walls surrounding the old town, the fortifications rise majestically from the surrounding countryside with its vineyards.

Carcassonne and Vineyards Carcassonne and Bridge Carcassonne Towers

Inhabited as early as 3500 BC, Carcasonne became an important trading center in the 6th century BC. Fortified by the Romans, the Visigoths, and later by Simon de Montfort during the Albigensian Crusade in the 13th century, Carcassonne was an important military citadel until the 17th century. By the mid-19th century, it had fallen into such disrepair that it was threatened with demolition. However, the fortress was eventually restored under the direction of the famous architect Viollet-le-Duc and is the most complete medieval fortified city in existence today.

According to legend, during an attempted siege of Carcassonne by Charlemagne in the 9th century, the city was saved by a trick of a certain townswoman. When she was told that all that was left in the way of food was a little grain and a pig, Madame Carcas fed the grain to the pig and threw it down from the highest tower in front of the invaders. Charlemagne assumed her action meant that the residents still had plenty of food, so he gave up the siege. As he and his men were leaving, Madame Carcas told the townspeople to ring all the church bells. One of Charlemagne’s men shouted “Carcas sonne” (Carcas is ringing), whence the name of the town.

Madame Carcas